Category: Travel

Pilatus dominates the Vierwaldstättersee region, forming a massive and dramatic backdrop as you look south from Mt. Rigi or from the lake steamers as you travel back and forth to Luzern. We went up a few years ago via bus from Luzern and the Fräkmüntegg cable car, stopping off at the ropes course and alpine slide on the northern flank before heading up to the summit and eventually taking the Pilatusbahn cog railway (Steepest in the world!) back down to Alpnachstad to catch the train and boat back to Vitzau.

But despite all the hiking I’ve done in the region, before this season I had not made the climb of this looming peak, a hike that by all accounts was a classic. So, I set off in early July to make the attempt.

To reach the foot of Pilatus on the southern side, you take a train or boat from Luzern to Alpnachstad. On the day in question I set out from Vitznau, my route all planned out in the trusty SBB app: Bus to Küssnacht, Train to Luzern, another train to Alpnachstad. Easy peasy.

But on this day, there was a hiccup – the train from Küssnacht was cancelled. It’s a tribute to the dense and efficient Swiss transport network that the app immediately suggested an alternative that got me to Alpnachstad at the exact same time.

Once I got to Alpnachstad, it seemed like a good time to stop for an espresso, because, well, why not? I sipped my espresso while I contemplated the hike before me.

The hike itself, timed at about four hours by the trail sign, took me closer to five, but I took my time, enjoying the beautiful views and sunshine.

Bürgenstock is a few things: an island-like massif visible from many directions and mountains around Lake Lucerne; a relatively recently (2017) renovated luxury resort; a fantastic vantage point for the peaks surrounding it, from the Rigi to Pilatus to Stanserhorn and on.

On this day I took a boat to Kehrsiten, at the foot of the Bürgenstock funicular which, like the resort, was completely renovated over several years from 2014 to 2017. I decided to hike to the top, rather than taking the Hammetschwand lift and gravelly Felsenweg, and the views from the top were, as always, a delight.

In another change from the usual on this spot, I decided to go to Obermatt, a restaurant on the shore of Lake Lucerne, directly opposite Weggis, and in general reachable only by private boat or water taxi. But the trail map said there was a path, so that’s the route I took.

This turned out to be an hour or two of buggy, steamy, steep, slippery switchbacks, perhaps ultimately doing one time, but not again. The restaurant was quite nice and the Coupe Danemark came with a gravy boat of hot fudge. The hike from Obermatt back to Kehrsiten went along the very steep lakeshore, over talus and scree slopes with the occasional sign reading “danger, rockfall, keep moving”. It was another epic race to catch the scheduled boat, but I made it just in time.

Enjoy the photos and a video montage!

This is a classic hike near the Vierwaldstättersee aka Lake Lucerne. Start in car-free Stoos, which you reach either by cable car or the Stoosbahn, the steepest funicular in the world. Then take a chairlift up to Klingenstock (or hike, as I did). Follow the beautiful ridge down and up to Fronalpstock, with spectacular lake and mountain views all around. Finally take the chairlift or hike back down to Stoos, descend to Brunnen, and return for that end of day beer.

Klewenalp is a quick cable car ride up from Beckenried, and serves as a great starting point for any number of hikes and bike rides in every direction. On this day I had an idea to hike up to Brisen, a tall 2400m or so peak. A few years ago, I took a similar path but encroaching weather encouraged me to skip the top of the ridge in favor of a descent to Haldigrat. Haldigrat is home to a small chairlift with an interesting history, but the first time I was there I was a little put off by having to interact with the local owner (of whose renown I was unaware), plus it cost CHF 12 to ride despite my Tell Pass. This was a mistake. That day I really learned the value of chairlifts; the hike down was incredibly steep, not very scenic, and I was in a rush to catch another cable car at Niederrickenbach to connect with a train to a bus to a boat to get back to Vitznau.

This year, I set out intending to probe a bit higher toward the peak of Brisen, but in the end the same ridge turn ended up being the right call for the day and the weather. But at least I took the chairlift!

It seems to be a pattern in these posts for me to say, of a day’s hike or other activity, “this is one of my favorites,” and I suppose that makes some sense for someone who has returned to nearly the same holiday spot for a couple of decades.

That said, the Rigi Lehnenweg, particularly the section from Weggis to Greppen and on to Küssnacht, is something I have called “my favorite place in the world,” and in many ways it is. It’s not the most dramatic scenery, or the most adventurous trail, but it’s one I’ve shared with my dear wife and daughter many many times. We walked here before my daughter was even a concept, when she was not quite here yet, when she was in a stroller, and quite a few times after that as we took a bus or a boat to Weggis, climbed the big hill, and strolled past the animals and farms to the delightful swimming spot in Greppen.

This year, my walking companions were already back in the US, and I’ll admit to a certain feeling of wistfulness as I thought back to prior times. But as ever, the scenery and quiet of this walk were also a soothing balm in our current strange times. And even better the forecasted thunderstorms held off until I was at the ice cream place in Küssnacht. (Even though it is an automated store rather than a cone shop, but I digress.)

But hey, this is supposed to be a travel photo blog! Sorry (but not all that sorry?) for the nostalgia and on to the photos and videos!

Boat to Luzern, train to Zürich, and a nice, shady (at times) walk through the Sihl forest. Very natural setting in the midst of an urban environment, much like Rock Creek or the C&O Canal. Well, sorta like that, anyway.

Tip: on mobile, tap the photo to see a carousel/slideshow.

So nice to return to Mount Rigi, the queen of the mountains. Some sun, a little rain, and a spectacular sunset to top off a lovely day hiking from Rigi Kulm to Rigi Scheidegg, then down to Goldau via cable car and a flat out speed walk to make the S3 into Luzern for a bit of grocery shopping before hopping on the ship back to Vitznau.

I take a lot of photos of sunsets in Vitznau, and here’s why.

Returned to a spectacular hike up to Leopoldsberg and through the Wienerwald to Kahlenberg. The trail for me started at the terminus of the U4 at Heilingenstadt, with a lengthy stroll along the Danube and its many cruise ships, then up the very steep Nasenweg (named for the nose-like profile) with its beautiful views of river, vineyards, and Wien.

A second transit ride on the Wiener Linien via bus 38a and U4 again took me to Schöttenring, then by foot past some real life train set trams on a turnaround and on to the best (IME) gelato in (Vienna? Austria? The world?).

A final stroll around Kärtnerstrasse and Graben wrapped the sunny day’s wandering.

One of the advantages of being near the Danube floodplain (and many others) is that the levees and other flood works are often topped by bike paths. In the case of the Danube (in Slovak Dunaj) downstream from Bratislava is a particularly nice one, smooth as glass and curving along the wide bends of the river.

The trip back was a bit harder, with a gusty, 20mph+ headwind.

Later, a birthday dinner with dear friends and great food. 9/10 on the day (-1 for headwind).

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