Rigi Lehnenweg


It seems to be a pattern in these posts for me to say, of a dayโ€™s hike or other activity, โ€œthis is one of my favorites,โ€ and I suppose that makes some sense for someone who has returned to nearly the same holiday spot for a couple of decades.

That said, the Rigi Lehnenweg, particularly the section from Weggis to Greppen and on to Kรผssnacht, is something I have called โ€œmy favorite place in the world,โ€ and in many ways it is. Itโ€™s not the most dramatic scenery, or the most adventurous trail, but itโ€™s one Iโ€™ve shared with my dear wife and daughter many many times. We walked here before my daughter was even a concept, when she was not quite here yet, when she was in a stroller, and quite a few times after that as we took a bus or a boat to Weggis, climbed the big hill, and strolled past the animals and farms to the delightful swimming spot in Greppen.

Walking the Lehnenweg in 2013

This year, my walking companions were already back in the US, and Iโ€™ll admit to a certain feeling of wistfulness as I thought back to prior times. But as ever, the scenery and quiet of this walk were also a soothing balm in our current strange times. And even better the forecasted thunderstorms held off until I was at the ice cream place in Kรผssnacht. (Even though it is an automated store rather than a cone shop, but I digress.)

But hey, this is supposed to be a travel photo blog! Sorry (but not all that sorry?) for the nostalgia and on to the photos and videos!

Vitznau start: many transport modes make Vitznau a great home base.
Weggis lakeside

Murmeli Wanderung

One of the most popular destinations in the Luzern region is Mt. Titlis, the lofty, usually snow-covered summit of which is reachable by a series of trains, buses, and cable cars. Itโ€™s always packed. In the past Iโ€™ve only ridden down from Trรผbsee, a midpoint, after enjoying the scenic but lengthy Four Lakes Trail from Melchsee-Frutt, but on this day I decided to join the throngs riding up to Titlis.

Alas, the Titlis express was under repair so all of us were consigned to the older funicular and cable car combination. After waiting in line for about half an hour, I decided that I could skip the line by walking up the first section. A friendly Titlis staffer said it would take โ€œabout an hour,โ€ so why not?

The line

So I began walking up. It was a bit steep but on a road, so no worries. It was at this point I noticed a shortcut on the Outdooractive app.

Red: closed lift. Green: funicular. Yellow: โ€œshortcutโ€

I should note that the SchweizMobil app did not show the shortcut. Anyway I took a shot. Ultimately I did reach the top of the funicular and caught the cable car up to Trรผbsee, but it was a bit of a bushwhack/scramble to be sure.

Can you discern the trail here? Itโ€™s there.
How about here?

Anyway it turned out to be an absolutely gorgeous day. Check out the photos, route, and video montage below.

Flowers, lake, and many, many cowbells.
Combination of a few shorter tracks and a lift or two

Sihlwald stroll

Boat to Luzern, train to Zรผrich, and a nice, shady (at times) walk through the Sihl forest. Very natural setting in the midst of an urban environment, much like Rock Creek or the C&O Canal. Well, sorta like that, anyway.

Tip: on mobile, tap the photo to see a carousel/slideshow.

Preening heron
The Sihl (my path for most of this hike) runs parallel to the Zรผrichsee lakeshore. You can see the forested section at the start as well.

Rigi – Die Kรถnigin Der Berge

So nice to return to Mount Rigi, the queen of the mountains. Some sun, a little rain, and a spectacular sunset to top off a lovely day hiking from Rigi Kulm to Rigi Scheidegg, then down to Goldau via cable car and a flat out speed walk to make the S3 into Luzern for a bit of grocery shopping before hopping on the ship back to Vitznau.

Part of todayโ€™s route, from Rigi Kulm to Rigi Scheidegg.
Video from the day.

I take a lot of photos of sunsets in Vitznau, and hereโ€™s why.

Sunset timelapse

Luzern, Weggis, Vitznau

A few afternoon and evening shots, with many more to come in the coming days.

About this place, Mark Twain said,

This is the charmingest place we have ever lived in for repose and restfulness, superb scenery whose beauty undergoes a perpetual change from one miracle to another, yet never runs short of fresh surprises and new inventions. We shall always come here for the summers if we can.

Indeed.

Luzern bahnhofquai scene

Wien Wanderung

Returned to a spectacular hike up to Leopoldsberg and through the Wienerwald to Kahlenberg. The trail for me started at the terminus of the U4 at Heilingenstadt, with a lengthy stroll along the Danube and its many cruise ships, then up the very steep Nasenweg (named for the nose-like profile) with its beautiful views of river, vineyards, and Wien.

A second transit ride on the Wiener Linien via bus 38a and U4 again took me to Schรถttenring, then by foot past some real life train set trams on a turnaround and on to the best (IME) gelato in (Vienna? Austria? The world?).

A final stroll around Kรคrtnerstrasse and Graben wrapped the sunny dayโ€™s wandering.

Real life train set
Hike #1
Hike #2

Windy Ride to Hungary

One of the advantages of being near the Danube floodplain (and many others) is that the levees and other flood works are often topped by bike paths. In the case of the Danube (in Slovak Dunaj) downstream from Bratislava is a particularly nice one, smooth as glass and curving along the wide bends of the river.

The trip back was a bit harder, with a gusty, 20mph+ headwind.

Later, a birthday dinner with dear friends and great food. 9/10 on the day (-1 for headwind).

Route video via Garmin and rumbo.world

Bratislava – Schloss Hof – Caruntum Tour โ€” Plus

Lovely sunny day for a 75k ride to Austria and back.

Makovka – the boomerang roll – is truly the breakfast of champions.

Iโ€™ve done this ride quite a few times – up the Danube to Deviลˆ, across the Freedom Bridge, then across the March plain, the Donaubrรผcke, Hainburg with Eissalon Daniel where Iโ€™ve enjoyed Haselnuss gelato for three decades, and return.

A portion of Deviลˆ Castle, blown up by Napoleonโ€™s army to render it ineffective. I guess it worked?
The route, courtesy of rumbo.world
Bonus 360 Video!

IAD, outbound.

A sunny ride to IAD, a brief lounge respite at the United Club and then off we go.

Sunny evening after a pretty drizzly day

Plane spotting. Havenโ€™t seen a lot of LH A-380s here before.

UA 932 IAD-FRA